Sunday 29 August 2010

Day 8/9 - 12hr epic/rest day

Yesterday Team B spent their day drying out all of their equipment from the day before. Chris and I caught the first chairlift up from Lake Misurina to go do the Comici route on Punta Col De Varda. We got on the route, Chris lead the first slabby pitch then I got stuck into the second chossy corner pitch. About 15m above the belay the corner crack closed up, the rock became friable and the climbing got serious. I tried a move off my little ledge, pulled on what appeared to be the key hold, ripped off a head-sized block and threw it down at Chris! Suitably spooked I made use of an existing piton and lowered off. We abbed down to the ground, had a sandwich, it started to rain so se headed back down the scree slopes with our tails between our legs. Looking back up and consulting the guidebook we realised we'd been on the wrong line again! =o( We carried on down, discussing out options, but it took us to the bottom of the torturous screes to mtfu and head back up again and do it properly.

The weather had smartened up by the time we got to the bottom of the now blinding obvious line so we set on up, me leading as fast as possible, moving quickly and keeping the gear spaced. Four pitches of quality crack, chimney and face climbing were dispatched in short order, it was still very cold and windy but no rain. There was no way we'd make the last chairlift down but we soldiered on anyway. The final pitch was a vague leftwards traverse linking ledges. So vague, I did a full 60m of quite tricky crack and face climbing with not a ledge in sight! That scared me as I was really unsure we were going the right way on the vast face!

We finally got to the top of the route, decided to sack off the 300m scramble to the summit and started abbing off. 150m of scary abbing down a massive choss filled chimney full of loose blocks the size of my torso saw us on the ground as it was getting dark. I'd used all my ab tat, mallions, nicked a rope and had to solo up to free the ropes on the final ab but we were both alive, albeit tired, hungy and covered in cuts and bruises. We walked down a piste by headtorch and got back to the car at 2115. That was Chris' first epic and one he'll remember I'm sure! I've certainly cured him of the idea that abseiling is fun! =oD

Today we drove over to the Sella Towers, Chris and I took it easy, had a good breakfast, dried the tent and had a refreshing wash in a river. Adam and James ran off towards the Sella Towers as soon as we arrived replete with via ferrata tails with a vague plan to find something to climb. Just had a text to say they'll be late back as the descent is tricky so they've got up something which is cool.

Less than 20% battery remaining on the phone, fingers crossed I can keep it off and blog till we start the log journey home on Thursday. It's been an awesome experience here with a good bunch of friends but I'm kinda looking forward to getting home now! I miss cold beer, large pizzas and the healing touch of a woman!

Oh, I've become quite addicted to expressos here, which is strange as I've never been a fan of coffee before!


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1 comment:

  1. It's 'esspresso'!! ARGH! Why can't people say/spell it correctly!

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